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DIRECTIONS 



FOR 



BY 



H. M. POTTER'S 



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CUTTING AND DESIGNING 



Ladies' Wkmi ail OWliisa- i lamiat 



BY FOLLOWING THESE DIRECTIONS ANY GARMENT CAN BE 
CUT IN A FEW MINUTES AND A PER- 
FECT FIT GUARANTEED. 

Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1881 by H. M. Potter in 
the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 

TO BE OBTAINED ONLY OF L ^l[^ 

H. M. POTTER, PROVIDENCE, R. I., 

OR ANY OF HIS DULY AUTHORIZED AGENTS. 



To Prepare the Scales for Use. 






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Paste the sheet of Scales, Square and Curved Ruler on to a 
sheet of Stiff Card Board that will not be liable to break. When 
the paste is dry, cut them apart. Use the Square to measure and 
draft with, the Curved Ruler for curved lines and the Scales as 
directed. 




How to Measure. 



Place the square underneath the arm with the short arm A down and make a 
mark along the top edge as at B in front of arm and back of arm as at D, then 
turn the square with the short arm A up in front of the arm, taking hold of the 
long arm with the left hand at the back and pulling it close to the front of arm 
and make a mark at the end of the square or at B crossing the previous mark 
thus -j-. Now place the square across the back with the upper edge touching D 
and mark C at the centre of back, now mark at top of back A for height of neck. 
Measure from A down front of arm to B, from B underneath the arm to C and 
from B to O at centre of bust for width of front. Then measure from A to C for 
depth of armscye, to E for length of waist, to F for the most prominent part of the 
hip make a mark at each of these points at the back then the full length measure. 
Now place the end of the tape at P and pass it round the front of armsize under- 
neath the arm and round the back up to P again for size of armscye. Then take 
the neck, bust, waist and hip measures round points ACE and F taking the bust 
measure close up under the arm drawing the tape close ; also the waist measure 
close, and the hip and scye measures easy. Now place the tape at the centre of 
back half way between A and C, and take the width of back ; then to elbow and 
to full length of sleeve, you will raise the arm while taking this measure. When 
measuring for skirts always commence from the waist and measure to the floor, 
then shorten or lengthen according to style required. When measuring for a 
dolman have the lady place her hand on the front of the bust as at O then take 
the measure for sleeve from C to the wrist. You will see that the diagrams give 
you the style, and the fit is produced by the measures of length and width of the 
body. They are very simple and with a little practice can be taken very correctly. 



How to Draft. 



The figures on the end of the scales signify half the bust measure for which 
it is to be used. Select the scale therefore that corresponds with half the bust 
measure, commence by drafting the back first. Draw the base line marked O at 
top and O at bottom • place the end of the scale at the top O and mark the num- 
bers down at these marks, square the lines across with the base line and mark the 
numbers for the width from the base line ; the length and width being all marked, 
shape as represented leaving an outlet at the top of the back and across the 
shoulder seam of 1 inch, also about 1 inch at the bottom of the back. The side 
pieces, front, sleeves and every part of the garment is drafted in the same manner. 
You will leave 1 inch outlets at the under arms seams of front and side pieces, 
also at the top of the shoulder seams and round the neck and do not cut the 
piece out of the arm scye or the amount out of darts until you apply the test 
measures, and when drafting a plain dress waist leave a piece on all round the 
bottom of back side pieces and fronts. Having cut out the several parts you 
will now place the front side pieces and back in a closing position with the seams 
overlapping each other and draw a line upwards even with the front of the arm- 
size crossing the line at the bottom of the scye which is the same as the -j- in 
front of body when taking the measure. Now with the inch tape measure 
from 4- at front to the centre of the back as from B to C and allow *4 inch more 



than measure taken • then measure from + to the centre of front as from B to O 
and allow \% inches, thus getting the width of back and front, which measures 
added together very often vary from the bust measure ; while the pattern is in 
this position apply the scye measure as from P to P and allow y 2 inch for the 
shoulder seams, raising or lowering the shoulders of back and front an equal 
amount. Next apply the measure from the bottom of scye line of back as from 
C to A and raise or lower the neck to measure, allowing ^ inch. Now apply the 
length of waist as from A to E, and lengthen or shorten the waist to measure and 
finish cutting the back. Place the neck point of shoulder of back on neck point of 
shoulder of front the seams lapping and apply the measure taken from A to B 
and allow y 2 inch raising or lowering the shoulder point until it comes to that 
measure. You will now measure round the neck for neck measure and allow y 2 
x nch, if you raise or lower the neck of back when you have placed the back and 
front together at neck raise or lower the front the same amount all round the neck. 
Now make the shoulder seam of front the same as shoulder seam of back and cut 
out the armscye. Should the garment require to be let out or taken in according 
to measure from B to C you will let out or take in an equal amount of the ou^.ets 
under the arm. Now measure the side seam of the cutout back and make the 
seam of side piece the same length an equal distance round the bottom and 
make the side seams of front same length as the side piece, thus lengthening or 
shortening the waist all round from back to front. Now place the back side 
pieces and front in a closing position at waist the seams overlapping and apply 
x /z the waist measure allowing 1 inch for seams of darts and take out at darts 
the remainder, more or less, preserving the shape and location of the same. 

To draft the sleeves draw the base line O O and mark the numbers down 
and across, then with the inch tape mea s ure the width of the cutout back and con- 
tinue the measure at the top of the back seam of sleeve and measure to elbow and 
full length. Now measure round the armsize of the patterns from P to P and 
make the top of the sleeve measure all round l 1 /, inches more than the armsize. 
Some dressmakers take a width of shoulder measure from side of neck to P, should 
this measure be taken and the shoulder made narrower than the diagram what is 
taken off the shoulder at P must be added on at 4>^ of sleeve. To cut below the 
waist line follow the same direction's and apply the measure from A to F and to 
full length and apply % the hip measure round at F allowing for seams crossed, 
V2 inch for each seam and let out or take in at the seams. 

For medium fitting and loose garments such as Sacques and Dolmans the 
diagrams will be found very correct and very little if any change will be required 
except in cases of disproportion such as very full front and flat back or long or 
short neck in which cases the test measures will prove it and you will soon become 
accustomed to the changes required. I have given diagrams from which any lady 
with ordinary skill can change and produce any kind of garment, but should any 
party using my method desire a diagram of any style garment published in any 
fashion report they can obtain the same for 25 cents by sending to my address the 
amount and a description of the garment, remembering that from a diagram 29 
patterns can be produced, while a pattern of the same purchased in a pattern 
agency costing more money, would produce only one sized garment. 

For the convenience of dressmakers who use the scales so much in cutting I 
have had them made in wood also the square and will furnish the same for $5.00 
per set. They will never wear out. Persons using the method can obtain a new 



set of the paper scales for $1.00. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 973 129 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





013 973 129 3 • 



Hollinger Corp. 

P H8.5 



